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France - Marseille - Calanques



Nice long weekend in the Calanques with Rodrigo, Arnaud, Jerome, Alec and Mike. 

Orgasmic chill out there....dydier on serious business ;-)  apparently a random 7a+



First day we had a late morning wake up with pain au chocolate and other amenities.

We moved to Sormiou to enjoy the apparent isolation (very few people around, the great view and the flowering narcissus, tymus and rosmarine…a sensoric orgasm at 360 degree.

Calanque de Sormiou - Le Bec: Éperon NE intégral  (120m,  5 pitches, 6a+)

Very nice tour directly on the see and with a great view on the Grand Candelle. Incredible L4+L5…it makes it a 55m of awesome exposed climbing on small crimps and great rock. A series of orgasmic crimps will chill you up on one of the best twopitchesinone I have climbed













After popping out and getting kissed by the sun we moved on on the sunny side of the bec de sormiou:

Calanque de Sormiou - Lui d'Aï (couple of two pitches routes up to 80m, 6b+ max ---OS)

This is the place where I like to take picture of people climbing….. Awesome.

Got some random two pitches routes done up to 6b+ OS. The view is fantastic and the rock is one of the best limestones I ever climbed on….Forget about Kalymnos.




Crack a go go..Arnaud sending


ya man keep pulling












Sunday was big day as with Rodrigo we climbed the megaclassic of Calanques. Never too hard and on great rock

Calanques de Sugiton/Luminy – Le Socle de la Candelle: Gutemberg (Foque-Germanaz 1972, 150m, 5 pitches, 6a+) An awesome little jewel to get up the Socle de la Candelle, a good way to get a start for routes on la Candelle itself.  Vertical and sustained. Piaz is your best Friend there. (take  a green a red and a yellow camalot just in case….;-))

continued with

La Candelle: Arete de Marseille (1927 J. Laurent, H. Paillon, M. Paillon et E. Wyss.  150m, 5 pitches, 5c)


truly yours almost at the top of The Grand Candelle de Marseille


 


Monday, as i had to be latest at the airport at 5 and i had already bad experience with Marseille`s traffic we climbed in the close by  
Calanque de  Morgiou - Crêt Saint Michel : Flagrant Délit (120m, 4 pitches 6a+) a recently opened line, nice, never too hard and with an easy descent. Very nice rock and great view.
See below, our line was between n.4 and n.5...something new and nice



 

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Training - Self made trainingboard

Self made Wood carved Training Board



It is a bit that i am thinking about a feasible way to make a wood training board without spending too much. 
Well, this is the idea i came up with:
Material:
4 wood boards 28mm x 300mm x 1200mm (price ca. 5 Eur each, full wood)1m metal threaded rod (8mm) to be cutted in 4 pieces of 25cm each8 bolts M88 washer M8Wood specific gluesdrill2 or 4 crimping tools  to fix the panels while gluing them together (overnight)sandpaper grid 400 and 10010mm drill tip to make the fixing holes 25 mm drill tip to make  the starting holes at the edges of the  slotswood-saw
The A3 sized plan can be downloaded here as PDF (Click).
It is basically an assembly of woodboards which are easy to work with, without specific material. the boards are first carved and then glued together.
Below some pictures of the process.












Before to glue the panels need to be treated with a sort of protective agent to look alike the metolius woodboard... i choose the Swedish oil to paint the boards…

Austria - Tirol - Habicht (3277m)

In this dry year, a very nice tour in great snow for what concern the upper part of the tour.
ca 60 and more cm of fresh powder await the brave snow seekers.
Habicht (3277m) - 25km, 2000hm ca

careful - ski carrying up to ca 2200m.
the rest is great  ;-)
today we teamed up as 4 to alternate in tracking the fluffy withe pleasure

















Austria - Tirol -MicroWenden

...awesome rock quality, ....long approach, .....wild and seldomly climbed, ......a nice day out ;-)
















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