Nice long weekend in the Calanques with Rodrigo, Arnaud, Jerome, Alec and Mike.
First day we had a late morning wake up with pain au chocolate and other amenities.
We moved to Sormiou to enjoy the apparent isolation (very few people around, the great view and the flowering narcissus, tymus and rosmarine…a sensoric orgasm at 360 degree.
Calanque de Sormiou - Le Bec: Éperon NE intégral (120m, 5 pitches, 6a+)
Very nice tour directly on the see and with a great view on the Grand Candelle. Incredible L4+L5…it makes it a 55m of awesome exposed climbing on small crimps and great rock. A series of orgasmic crimps will chill you up on one of the best twopitchesinone I have climbed
After popping out and getting kissed by the sun we moved on on the sunny side of the bec de sormiou:
Calanque de Sormiou - Lui d'Aï (couple of two pitches routes up to 80m, 6b+ max ---OS)
This is the place where I like to take picture of people climbing….. Awesome.
Got some random two pitches routes done up to 6b+ OS. The view is fantastic and the rock is one of the best limestones I ever climbed on….Forget about Kalymnos.
|Crack a go go..Arnaud sending|
|ya man keep pulling|
Sunday was big day as with Rodrigo we climbed the megaclassic of Calanques. Never too hard and on great rock
Calanques de Sugiton/Luminy – Le Socle de la Candelle: Gutemberg (Foque-Germanaz 1972, 150m, 5 pitches, 6a+) An awesome little jewel to get up the Socle de la Candelle, a good way to get a start for routes on la Candelle itself. Vertical and sustained. Piaz is your best Friend there. (take a green a red and a yellow camalot just in case….;-))
La Candelle: Arete de Marseille (1927 J. Laurent, H. Paillon, M. Paillon et E. Wyss. 150m, 5 pitches, 5c)
|truly yours almost at the top of The Grand Candelle de Marseille|
Monday, as i had to be latest at the airport at 5 and i had already bad experience with Marseille`s traffic we climbed in the close by
Calanque de Morgiou - Crêt Saint Michel : Flagrant Délit (120m, 4 pitches 6a+) a recently opened line, nice, never too hard and with an easy descent. Very nice rock and great view.
See below, our line was between n.4 and n.5...something new and nice