Skip to main content

Austria - Tirol - Oetztal - Burgsteiner Wand - Route: Schwalbennest (7 Pitches - 6b - 250m)

Nice, short, on good rock and with no approach ....;-). Never too hard and bolted as in the Gym (leave your "nuts" home you will not need them here eh eh

Great sharp gneiss is the rule here...and merely 30 min from home

With Manuel today we have been lazy but nevertheless climbed nicely in Oetztal:
Burgsteiner Wand - Route: Schwalbennest (7 Pitches  - 6b - 250m)
(5b, 6a+, 6b, 6b, 6b, 5b, 5b)

Great are the 2nd, 4th and 5th pitches

the 2nd is a physical traverse below the roof, the 4th is an amazing (for beeing merely a 6b...) layback crack and the 5th is a crimpy delicate face climbing with some airy movements...

unfortunately the last two pitches get grassy and uninteresting but all in all a great climb for calm days.
The close-by Schwarze mauer (7pitches, 7a) crossing the black overhanging area looks also quite nice ;-). More info here: Plörer Ferdl und Wilhelm Klemens - Schwarze Mauer (7a)

At first, and by error we climbed the 1st pitch of a project from Markus Schwaiger: info here
but at the 8a roof pitch the error became obvious.......we got into the wrong route ;-)
This project form Markus is between Schwarze Mauer and Schwalbennest and all the three routes start within easy to mix up
Markus is a very active in the area of Zillertal (granite area approx 45 min east on Innsbruck) and it is the author of the guide Climbing and Bouldering in Zillertal: info and videos here

In the afternoon we then moved to Oberried for some sport climbing
 here, the gneiss walls grow out of a flat meadow and also offers a wide range of routes with about 80 routes between 3a and 7 c. The wall is aligned East and therefore in the afternoon it is in the shade.
check out the climbing area of Oetztal here: Oetztal climbing video
Oberried in particular can be seen at min 4:20

Here i could climb:
  • Sanyo (O. Grüner) / 1991 -  6c (still to do it in one go as the boulder roof section is really pumpy for me ;-)... very weird the  boulder movement to clip over the left foot was over my head...for a while..........
  • Samurai (O. Grüner) / 1988 6b+ - (OS)
  • Marco Polo (O. Grüner) / 1987 - 6b (OS)

some pics below:

Manuel following on the second pitch just before the technical traverse

a bee got me on my feet yesterday while getting some work done in view of the new Honey production... i still entered the climbing shoes ;-)..the problem was to get them out !


most viewed

Training - Self made trainingboard

Self made Wood carved Training Board

It is a bit that i am thinking about a feasible way to make a wood training board without spending too much. 
Well, this is the idea i came up with:
4 wood boards 28mm x 300mm x 1200mm (price ca. 5 Eur each, full wood)1m metal threaded rod (8mm) to be cutted in 4 pieces of 25cm each8 bolts M88 washer M8Wood specific gluesdrill2 or 4 crimping tools  to fix the panels while gluing them together (overnight)sandpaper grid 400 and 10010mm drill tip to make the fixing holes 25 mm drill tip to make  the starting holes at the edges of the  slotswood-saw
The A3 sized plan can be downloaded here as PDF (Click).
It is basically an assembly of woodboards which are easy to work with, without specific material. the boards are first carved and then glued together.
Below some pictures of the process.

Before to glue the panels need to be treated with a sort of protective agent to look alike the metolius woodboard... i choose the Swedish oil to paint the boards…

Austria - Tirol - Habicht (3277m)

In this dry year, a very nice tour in great snow for what concern the upper part of the tour.
ca 60 and more cm of fresh powder await the brave snow seekers.
Habicht (3277m) - 25km, 2000hm ca

careful - ski carrying up to ca 2200m.
the rest is great  ;-)
today we teamed up as 4 to alternate in tracking the fluffy withe pleasure

Austria - Tirol -MicroWenden

...awesome rock quality, ....long approach, .....wild and seldomly climbed, ......a nice day out ;-)