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Italy - Trentino alto Adige - Arco climbing

With Andrea in Arco this weekend looking for some sun ;-). This weekend was also the Arco rock master competition.




Colodri, Rupe secca Est - Route: Mescalito (R.Vettori, R. Bernard 1982 - 6c , 9 pitches - 260m)

A route i spotted 10 years ago or so from the street..some random climber where in.
A nice thing to climb that vertical piece of rock with small features, a nice roof to be climbed in full exposition ;-)
thanks Andrea for the nice day.


(6a+) not easy for chicken and not a piece of cake....good warm up. 3 bolts, 1 piton and 1 stuck nut. It takes good gear.
(6b) nice and a crack to protect at the beginning (0.75 BD and 1 BD) then i gets a V shaped chimney a bit overhanging and with smooth walls....nice one ;)
(6c) hard start with poor feet then nice and airy.
(6a) first left on the red then a not so easy to read hard (for the grade) move straight up, ending on an easy traverse (20m) toward left on the ledge. (watch out the rope drag and the stones on the ledge..your beloved  belayer is straight below....you do not want to knock him off!!!)
(6b) Nice technical little dihedral then small hand holds....NICE NICE NICE
(6c) Technical and nice at the beginning on long movements...then brute force apply on very good handholds...airy airy airy ;-) and NICE...(it is given 7a... i`ve seen harder 6c i must say! the roof has very good handholds)
(5a)  a nice traverse left on great rock then up on good pockets
(5a) the usual long (60m quasi...) exit..bit grassy, bit rocky, bit of all
enjoy the view of the lake toward south ;-)

Topo of Mescalito: from a repetition of the 30th of August 2014



Monte Colt, San Paolo, Muro di Oceania - Route: Il grande fratello vi guarda (R Galvagni, M Pfitscher 1996 - 6c+, 5 pitches - 170m)

(6b+) nice hard warm up...
(6c)  the start has it all then easy
(6b)  Nice and technical on small handholds.
(6c)  The start is the hardes single movement then easy and nice...on great gray limestone.
(6c+) A roofy rooof and you think that`s it or?...but then the pumpy part starts ;-)..enjoy

some pics below
Andrea on the 3rd pitch



Sarca Valley

5th pitch, as vertical and on small holds as it can get ;-). Andrea Down there








The roof pitch






Andrea negotiating the Roof

The Final Lead at the Rock Master 2014.

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Training - Self made trainingboard

Self made Wood carved Training Board



It is a bit that i am thinking about a feasible way to make a wood training board without spending too much. 
Well, this is the idea i came up with:
Material:
4 wood boards 28mm x 300mm x 1200mm (price ca. 5 Eur each, full wood)1m metal threaded rod (8mm) to be cutted in 4 pieces of 25cm each8 bolts M88 washer M8Wood specific gluesdrill2 or 4 crimping tools  to fix the panels while gluing them together (overnight)sandpaper grid 400 and 10010mm drill tip to make the fixing holes 25 mm drill tip to make  the starting holes at the edges of the  slotswood-saw
The A3 sized plan can be downloaded here as PDF (Click).
It is basically an assembly of woodboards which are easy to work with, without specific material. the boards are first carved and then glued together.
Below some pictures of the process.












Before to glue the panels need to be treated with a sort of protective agent to look alike the metolius woodboard... i choose the Swedish oil to paint the boards…

Austria - Tirol - Habicht (3277m)

In this dry year, a very nice tour in great snow for what concern the upper part of the tour.
ca 60 and more cm of fresh powder await the brave snow seekers.
Habicht (3277m) - 25km, 2000hm ca

careful - ski carrying up to ca 2200m.
the rest is great  ;-)
today we teamed up as 4 to alternate in tracking the fluffy withe pleasure

















Austria - Tirol -MicroWenden

...awesome rock quality, ....long approach, .....wild and seldomly climbed, ......a nice day out ;-)
















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