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Austria - Tirol - Schüsselkar - Bayerischer Traum (9 pitches, VIII-)

Wetterstein, Schüsselkar -  Bayerischer Traum (300m, 8 pitches, VIII-)


A nice day outta there with Birgit trying a long time project of her.
Around 400 meters high, steep and a classic line. It´s located on the Southface of Schüsselkarspitze in the Wetterstein Mountains. It was opend in 1980 by Josef Heinl and Albert Gilgenrainer (10.10.1980) and first free climbed in 1983......Soloed by Hansjörg Auer in 2011... (link)

The Schüsselkarspitze is the premiere rock climbing mountain in the Wetterstein Range. It's south and south-east faces are lined with famous climbs from the last 100 years.

In the days of Hans Dülfer, it was the Herzog-Fiechtl route that drew admiration. It's still a fine climb today, employing two classical pendulum traverses. Stout Grade VI climbing was being done by the 1930s with the astonishing Peters/Haringer route, and then the Direct South Face (UIAA Grade VII) by Aschenbrenner/Rainier in 1939. The 1980s saw climbs of grade IX being put up by adventure climbers like Heinz Zak,  ("Leben im Sonnenschein").
W. Gullich aK. Albert also left some footprint here ("Locher vom Hocker VIII-")

In Hermann Buhl's magnificent book, "Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage," he devotes a chapter to the Schüsselkarspitze, describing his repeat of several of the peaks most famous climbs on the beetling overhangs of the South and Southeast faces. He writes "I visited the Schüsselkarspitze in the Wetterstein Range again and again. Everything a climber can ask for is to be found on its South Face."


 Indeed, there are excellent cracks, corners, overhangs, faces, smooth slabs and slabs with water runnels, and a curious lack of chimneys.

The routes have every kind of protection regime as well. The gamet runs from entirely bolted sport climbs ("Wolke 7" a magnificient route of 7 pitches in the 7th grade)  to almost completely self-protected climbs. I say almost because the majority of climbs will have either pitons or bolts in place for belay stances.

The peak was first climbed via the North Flank in 1894 by Schuster and Moser. This route is not popular today, offering rather loose and unappealing climbing. If approaching from the north, it's better to make for the Wangscharte and then follow the West Ridge.
Approach from the Puittal :

This approach is useful for climbs on the Southeast and East faces, obviating the need to climb over the Scharnitzjoch (pass) and down to the base of the walls. Begin hiking in the tiny hamlet of Lehner in the Leutasch valley. Follow a wide trail north then after crossing bridge go northwest up through forest into the Puittal (valley). At about 1500 meters elevation the route breaks out of the trees and continues gently up the valley with a fine view of the Schüsselkarspitze all the while. To reach routes on the south face leave the trail at about 1800 meters and head north to a small basin below the face. Scree and heather leads directly to the routes (usually starting a bit below 2200 meters elevation). 2h 15min in total for approx 1100m of elevation gain.

Detailed description of the route:
We climbed the route till out of the major difficoulties and from were it still makes sense to rappel out. Avoiding in this way the long ridge to get back down walking.

1. (VI-) starting at the Friedempfeife inscription (a parallel route from Hainz Zak sharing the first pitch)  not easy for the grade (35m 3 bolts)
2. (IV-) do not go up straight to the obvious bolts, climb instead below the roof on the right. takes good gear (25m, 1 sandhur)
3. (V) Nice features-rich slab (20m,  3 bolts)
4. (VII) slab from right to left easy with one single boulder  movement at the end ..i had to hook with my right feet toe ,,,,,, weird! (20m, many bolts)
5. (VI+) The pitch of the pitch ;-) a detached crack to be climbed in Piaz mode ;-)  (35m, 2 fixed...not really to be trusted, old Slinges... it takes gear from 0.75 BD at the beginning then DB 1,3,4,5 in thus order...if  you need more you are in the wrong place
6. (VII-)  Nice but long (45m, several bolts)
7.(VIII-) great sharp rock  with one single hard at the beginning, then easy and nice (35m, several bolts)
8. (VI+) Hard for the grade and overhanging (45m, 5 bolts)

from here the top is reached via the Peters-Haringer (1934) with 4-5 pitched  up to VI and descent via the west ridge.... or it is possible to rappel (5 rappels, somethimes it needs to clip some bolts to reach the belays easily...).

Suggested Rappels (5x with 60m double rope.)

  1. from belay n.9 rappel straight back to the belay n. 8
  2. from belay n. 8 straight down to an extra belay....(the random webbing is old and in poor conditions... we reinforced with a nut with we left in place plus a a new sling..) The good thing is that from here one can get straight down to the belay n.4. 
  3. From the "external belay" rappel to belay n.4
  4. From here rappel to belay n.1
  5. last rappel to the ground

the topo is old and shows rappelling belays which do not exists anymore
an Up to date topo - 2014 - with the rappel scheme


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