Skip to main content

Italy - Dolomites - Ethic & Aesthetic in Dolomites

Ethic & Aesthetic in Dolomites: a.k.a sport bolted and trad old school salad ;-)
In three nice sunny Rocktober days me and Birgit got done three nice routes: 

  • Lastroni ddel Formin - Route: Love my Dogs 300m, 8 Pitches - 7a  (Dibona, Alexander 2005). It is a rather new route on the Lastoni di Formin at the hands of Mario Dibona and Gretchen Alexander. The duo created a new bolt 300m route up the center of Spiz de Mondeval, calling it "Love my dogs" and grading it 7a, 6b+ oblig...the route it is rather overgraded in my view as it went without big difficoulties on sight for me. A max 6c is appropriate and it resolve in one movement to get a good hole on the little roofy movement of the 7th pitch.

  • Tofana, Primo Spigolo - Route: Alvera`-Pompanin 450m, 13 pitches - V+ (Alvera`/Pompanin 1946). An extremely popular mid-grade route. It initially follows the large corner at the base of the arete, then continues up slightly to the left of the arete, before moving right to avoid the roofs. This traverse and corner above constitute the crux. From the large ledge the route continues first left, then right onto the arete before reaching the top via a series of chimneys

  • Cinque Torri, Torre grande - Route: Diretta Dimai 200m, 8 pitches - VI+ (Dimai, Degasper, Ghedina, Verzi 1933). A classical recently sanified (a.k.a many bolts added... except the 1st, 2nd and last 2 pitches i would consider the route sport bolted...). Thanks to their infinite variety of shapes and sizes, the marvellous Cinque Torri ideally represent the entire Dolomites. The characteristic profile isn't comprised of just 5 towers, but by a mass of secondary boulders, fractured towers and peaks sprinkled liberally across the entire area. These peaks are located to the west of Cortina on a grassy hillock just above the tree line at circa 2200m.
plus pizza, wine and beer....

some pics below:

The recent and sport bolted "love my dogs" in white the original grades, in yellow my view of them. I climbed the all sections on sight and IMO the route is rather overgraded. especially compared with the close-by "Re Artu`".

Torre Grande. Diretta Dimai - VI+ (1933)

Tofana - Primo Spigolo: Alvera/Pompanin (V+)

Birgit on the final crux of the 2nd pitch of  Love my dogs (6b+?)

the last 2 5b pitches of love my dogs... with a 60m rope doable in one pitch

the view of Croda di lago

the Tofana

2nd pitch of the Alvera`-Pompanin (1946)

out of the crux 3rd poitch (V+)

the way down, after a recent rockfall pass on a tiny ledge

the "magic bus" at 5 torri

truly yours at Diretta Dimai (1933) - Torre Grande. 1st pitch V+

The aestetic traverse on the Diretta Dimai (IV then VI)


most viewed

Training - Self made trainingboard

Self made Wood carved Training Board

It is a bit that i am thinking about a feasible way to make a wood training board without spending too much. 
Well, this is the idea i came up with:
4 wood boards 28mm x 300mm x 1200mm (price ca. 5 Eur each, full wood)1m metal threaded rod (8mm) to be cutted in 4 pieces of 25cm each8 bolts M88 washer M8Wood specific gluesdrill2 or 4 crimping tools  to fix the panels while gluing them together (overnight)sandpaper grid 400 and 10010mm drill tip to make the fixing holes 25 mm drill tip to make  the starting holes at the edges of the  slotswood-saw
The A3 sized plan can be downloaded here as PDF (Click).
It is basically an assembly of woodboards which are easy to work with, without specific material. the boards are first carved and then glued together.
Below some pictures of the process.

Before to glue the panels need to be treated with a sort of protective agent to look alike the metolius woodboard... i choose the Swedish oil to paint the boards…

Austria - Tirol - Habicht (3277m)

In this dry year, a very nice tour in great snow for what concern the upper part of the tour.
ca 60 and more cm of fresh powder await the brave snow seekers.
Habicht (3277m) - 25km, 2000hm ca

careful - ski carrying up to ca 2200m.
the rest is great  ;-)
today we teamed up as 4 to alternate in tracking the fluffy withe pleasure

Austria - Tirol -MicroWenden

...awesome rock quality, ....long approach, .....wild and seldomly climbed, ......a nice day out ;-)