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Italy - Arco - Climbing

Italy - Arco - Climbing...3 no bolts days

Three days of incredible sun in Arco, three no bolts routes, three fantastic 5 stars classical i always dreamed about...
a lot of beer and quite some gelato in between
that`s all what it is about....

In three days we climbed approx 900m of great solid limestone ;-)

  1. Primo pilastro del monte Casale - Via del missile (VII, 10 pitches, 340 m. Giuliano Stenghel and Alessandro Baldessarini, 8 November 1981). updated topo here (Click)
  2.  Pian della Paia - Via Cesare Levis a.k.a Diedro Manolo (VI+, 9 pitches, 300m . Maurizio Zanolla/Manolo, Marco Furlani and Giovanni Groaz, 13 October 1978) updated topo here: (Click)
  3.  Mandrea di Laghel - Pilastro Gabrielli (VII, 5 pitches, 230m. Giuliano Stenghel and Giorgio Vaccari, 10 May 1978). updated topo here (Click)
some pics below:

the approach in yellow (T4/T5) 45min and in red the Missile route.

Cesare Levis/Diedro Manolo

Pilastro Gabrielli - The approach includes appox 100m of bushwhacking in T6... old (a.k.a. not always to be trusted) fixed ropes are in place...if you go there take 15m of old rope with you and change that...or i`ll do it next time i go there...

Birgit at the end of the first traverse of the "missile" (VII, 4 pitons - 25m)

VI 30m dihedral - just great, no gear in place

The pitch of the pitches, the 6th pitch of "missile", 45m red limestone a bit overhanging and up high....VI+ no gear in place

Birgit negotiating the crux - good job ;-)

Do you see the red missile?

the red missile

Second pitch of the Cesare Levis (VI+)

the end of the second pitch of the Cesare get airy up there...

Birgit negotiating the roof movement (3 pitons to protect the exit)

The upper part of the Cesare Levis (V+)

old timer...

Birgit on the first pitch of the "Pilastro Gabrielli"

after 100 m of expo bushwhacking finally the fantastic 1st pitch

a series of oldtimer protect the red chimney... VI+

Birgit in action on the red chimney

At the end of the 45m white chimney (VI+, 2 pitons)

i go there for the ice not for the rock
some more pics from Birgit:

the 7th pitch of the missile (stay out of that crack..) then it is a V and well protectable...

The VI traverse of the Missile

leading the VI+ white chimney on the Gabrielli pillar

the second pitch of the Gabrielli pillar

Gabrielli pillar


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Training - Self made trainingboard

Self made Wood carved Training Board

It is a bit that i am thinking about a feasible way to make a wood training board without spending too much. 
Well, this is the idea i came up with:
4 wood boards 28mm x 300mm x 1200mm (price ca. 5 Eur each, full wood)1m metal threaded rod (8mm) to be cutted in 4 pieces of 25cm each8 bolts M88 washer M8Wood specific gluesdrill2 or 4 crimping tools  to fix the panels while gluing them together (overnight)sandpaper grid 400 and 10010mm drill tip to make the fixing holes 25 mm drill tip to make  the starting holes at the edges of the  slotswood-saw
The A3 sized plan can be downloaded here as PDF (Click).
It is basically an assembly of woodboards which are easy to work with, without specific material. the boards are first carved and then glued together.
Below some pictures of the process.

Before to glue the panels need to be treated with a sort of protective agent to look alike the metolius woodboard... i choose the Swedish oil to paint the boards…

Austria - Tirol - Habicht (3277m)

In this dry year, a very nice tour in great snow for what concern the upper part of the tour.
ca 60 and more cm of fresh powder await the brave snow seekers.
Habicht (3277m) - 25km, 2000hm ca

careful - ski carrying up to ca 2200m.
the rest is great  ;-)
today we teamed up as 4 to alternate in tracking the fluffy withe pleasure

Austria - Tirol -MicroWenden

...awesome rock quality, ....long approach, .....wild and seldomly climbed, ......a nice day out ;-)