Skip to main content

Italy - Arco- Keruak (VII+, 300m ) & Giovanni Segantini (6c+, 300m)

Italy Arco.....
Crack climbing ...
as good as it gets in limestone 
apparently it gets very good ;-)....

Pian della Paia - Keruak (VII+, 300m,  7 pitches, G.Groaz, P.Baldo, L.Massarotto 1981) a traditional route (IV, IV, V+, VI+, VI, VII+, V). Nice exposed mainly crack climbing on less than perfect rock, with a lloooott of air under our ass and on very old rusty although few, pitons...some belays we renewed ;-). We were alone in the route and the route should not be climbed  if anybody is already in the route. The risk of rockfall (some big as a full size old stile TV) is concrete and very possible.....
The guidebook mark the 6th pitch dihedral as A0 to be climb artif.... For us it went free and OS and we think it goes free around VII/VII+. The first 10m of the dihedral are seldomly protectable and request some phantasy ;-). a hint take a nut salewa n. 6 with you and a long sling...the nerves of the one at the belay will be released by having at least one... "jesus nut" after some m....the belay is not the one you would like to take a factor 2 fall. Cool historical route, a must do but obviously in NOT too busy days....

an overview of the route below:

Keruac from the approach. The first two pitches are rather still a sort of approach on grassy chimney/ledges and poor rock/grass/leaves..then it gets nice ;-). We roped up from the beginning as the entrance chimney i found it dangerous.

Colodri - Giovanni Segantini (6c+,  300m, 9 pitches, Massimo Antonini & Giampaolo Calz√† Sept. 2008). A hard sport route in the style of the 80ies... a.k.a. spaced bolted and supervertical on small olds which always requires very technical movements.... My best sport climbing so far.
Intense, continuous (6c+/7a, 6c, 6c+, 6c, 6b+/6c, 6a+, 6a+, 6c, 6a) and requesting some nerves but never always fall in the rope and not touch really the rock badly ;-).
PS.  put the following in google translator: "NON SI AZZERA NIENTE" ;-)
Nice, nice, nice..with Manu today we sorted out all the  movements up to 5th pitch were it you can start breating for 2 pitches...before the famous "specchio delle mie brame pitch" (a slabby 6c hard sparsely protected pitch bolted 20 years ago by H. of the first sport pitch of sarcatal and bolted from above....) "this is a famous pitch, extremely famous for all those who were around at the time: it's a slab, the first in the Sarca valley to have been bolted, bolted from above, on purpose for sport climbing by two famous climbers, Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher, two forerunners of this sort not only in Arco but worldwide. Naturally we left this beautiful slab exactly how it had been conceived, which means the same distance between one bolt and the next. Needless to say that here good technique is of the essence."  more info here (Click) 

Giovanni Segnatini. Great vertical/overhanging wall.

some pics below:

First VI+ pitch of "Keruac". Manuel following on the hollow flakes

Crack a go go ;-). The  CRACK of the 2nd pitch.

3rd pitch, chimney, face, crack, overhanging and then once agin face climbing (watch out for big blocks at the top while traversing)

good prospective over the 3rd pitch from the belay. Manuel in action.

Traversing on doubiuos rock

Indian Autumn

finely structured vertical wall on the 1st pitch of "Giovanni Segantini" (6c+/7a)

Manu negotiationg the first "warm up"  (6c+/7a)  movement

high on the 2nd pitch of the "Segantini" 6c/+. Manuel is approaching the little finger handholds of this pitch`s crux

the 3rd 6c/+ pitch after the "dyno" exit ;-) took a nice whipper there eh eh

some more pics from Manuel:

Happy after Free OS the VII/+ pitch normally climbed A0. (watch out for the first 10m out of the belay as they are poorely protectable (V+/VI) and for the quality of the Pitons of the overall pitch...poor but no other way to integrate the protections)

Eating the fish: i got the Cruxy first pitch ;-)

oh YEAH: truly yours in an ocean of small handholds

almost at the end of the 3rd pitch on the Segantini


most viewed

Training - Self made trainingboard

Self made Wood carved Training Board

It is a bit that i am thinking about a feasible way to make a wood training board without spending too much. 
Well, this is the idea i came up with:
4 wood boards 28mm x 300mm x 1200mm (price ca. 5 Eur each, full wood)1m metal threaded rod (8mm) to be cutted in 4 pieces of 25cm each8 bolts M88 washer M8Wood specific gluesdrill2 or 4 crimping tools  to fix the panels while gluing them together (overnight)sandpaper grid 400 and 10010mm drill tip to make the fixing holes 25 mm drill tip to make  the starting holes at the edges of the  slotswood-saw
The A3 sized plan can be downloaded here as PDF (Click).
It is basically an assembly of woodboards which are easy to work with, without specific material. the boards are first carved and then glued together.
Below some pictures of the process.

Before to glue the panels need to be treated with a sort of protective agent to look alike the metolius woodboard... i choose the Swedish oil to paint the boards…

Austria - Tirol - Habicht (3277m)

In this dry year, a very nice tour in great snow for what concern the upper part of the tour.
ca 60 and more cm of fresh powder await the brave snow seekers.
Habicht (3277m) - 25km, 2000hm ca

careful - ski carrying up to ca 2200m.
the rest is great  ;-)
today we teamed up as 4 to alternate in tracking the fluffy withe pleasure

Austria - Tirol -MicroWenden

...awesome rock quality, ....long approach, .....wild and seldomly climbed, ......a nice day out ;-)