Crack climbing ...
as good as it gets in limestone
apparently it gets very good ;-)....
Pian della Paia - Keruak (VII+, 300m, 7 pitches, G.Groaz, P.Baldo, L.Massarotto 1981) a traditional route (IV, IV, V+, VI+, VI, VII+, V). Nice exposed mainly crack climbing on less than perfect rock, with a lloooott of air under our ass and on very old rusty although few, pitons...some belays we renewed ;-). We were alone in the route and the route should not be climbed if anybody is already in the route. The risk of rockfall (some big as a full size old stile TV) is concrete and very possible.....
The guidebook mark the 6th pitch dihedral as A0 to be climb artif.... For us it went free and OS and we think it goes free around VII/VII+. The first 10m of the dihedral are seldomly protectable and request some phantasy ;-). a hint take a nut salewa n. 6 with you and a long sling...the nerves of the one at the belay will be released by having at least one... "jesus nut" after some m....the belay is not the one you would like to take a factor 2 fall. Cool historical route, a must do but obviously in NOT too busy days....
an overview of the route below:
|Keruac from the approach. The first two pitches are rather still a sort of approach on grassy chimney/ledges and poor rock/grass/leaves..then it gets nice ;-). We roped up from the beginning as the entrance chimney i found it dangerous.|
Colodri - Giovanni Segantini (6c+, 300m, 9 pitches, Massimo Antonini & Giampaolo Calzà Sept. 2008). A hard sport route in the style of the 80ies... a.k.a. spaced bolted and supervertical on small olds which always requires very technical movements.... My best sport climbing so far.
Intense, continuous (6c+/7a, 6c, 6c+, 6c, 6b+/6c, 6a+, 6a+, 6c, 6a) and requesting some nerves but never dangerous...you always fall in the rope and not touch really the rock badly ;-).
PS. put the following in google translator: "NON SI AZZERA NIENTE" ;-)
Nice, nice, nice..with Manu today we sorted out all the movements up to 5th pitch were it you can start breating for 2 pitches...before the famous "specchio delle mie brame pitch" (a slabby 6c hard sparsely protected pitch bolted 20 years ago by H. Mariacher...one of the first sport pitch of sarcatal and bolted from above....) "this is a famous pitch, extremely famous for all those who were around at the time: it's a slab, the first in the Sarca valley to have been bolted, bolted from above, on purpose for sport climbing by two famous climbers, Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher, two forerunners of this sort not only in Arco but worldwide. Naturally we left this beautiful slab exactly how it had been conceived, which means the same distance between one bolt and the next. Needless to say that here good technique is of the essence." more info here (Click)
|Giovanni Segnatini. Great vertical/overhanging wall.|
some pics below:
|First VI+ pitch of "Keruac". Manuel following on the hollow flakes|
|Crack a go go ;-). The CRACK of the 2nd pitch.|
|3rd pitch, chimney, face, crack, overhanging and then once agin face climbing (watch out for big blocks at the top while traversing)|
|good prospective over the 3rd pitch from the belay. Manuel in action.|
|Traversing on doubiuos rock|
|finely structured vertical wall on the 1st pitch of "Giovanni Segantini" (6c+/7a)|
|Manu negotiationg the first "warm up" (6c+/7a) movement|
|high on the 2nd pitch of the "Segantini" 6c/+. Manuel is approaching the little finger handholds of this pitch`s crux|
|the 3rd 6c/+ pitch after the "dyno" exit ;-) took a nice whipper there eh eh|
some more pics from Manuel:
|Eating the fish: i got the Cruxy first pitch ;-)|
|oh YEAH: truly yours in an ocean of small handholds|
|almost at the end of the 3rd pitch on the Segantini|